These designers are putting all they have — energy and money to create a name for themselves in the fashion industry. From shoe designers to ready-to-wear, here’s Part One on the new breed of designers that the Indian fashion industry can look forward to
Farah Sanjana has the experience from working under global names like Ralph Lauren and Vivienne Westwood. The Nagpur- based label would be an interesting amalgamation of western and Indian due to the designer’s learning of the craft and travel. The designer’s clothes aim to excite and stand out and hence you will find a regular white shirt tailored with multiple collars. Or neck collar attached to the shoulders of the silhouette. Farah’s style could appeal to the rebellious and bored of the conventional audience once honed.
MOHAMMED JAVED KHAN
Designer Mohammed Javed Khan is a NIFT(National Institute of Fashion Technology) graduate with experience garnered from international fashion hubs like Paris and Milan. The designer showcases his menswear collection at Mumbai’s Lakme Fashion Week. Long sweaters, kurtas with comfortable loose pants, pullovers, long knit coats, quilted jackets and military shirts are the pieces displayed before by the designer.
The young designer is influenced by the punk fashion from the 1980s. His garments reflect the confluence of the popular trends from that era with a mix of today’s trends. In the previous show from Lakme Fashion Week, the designer showed garments like embroidered corset, ‘armadillo reptilian’ shoulders bolero and ‘rag doll’ micro mini. Arya’s design inspiration might change over time, but seems that his fearlessness of taking strong references will remain.
Mayank Anand & Shraddha Nigam
Mayank Anand and Shraddha Nigam, first actors by profession and now designers, work together to design under a label that aims to make the traditional silhouettes more modern and easier to wear. Men’s lungi and dhoti drapes adapted on to saris, dhotis, skirts, kaftans, and dresses. Not an easy task, the duo has years of traditional tailoring and skills to compete with in order to win their audience.
Rohan Arora, footwear designer
Rohan Arora started his footwear label in 2008 with a vision of creating high-end fashion footwear for the Indian market. The brand takes pride in rediscovering the craft of handmade shoes, rightly so as the local market has only a few names doing the same in the vast country. Rohan uses unconventional materials to create footwear like mahogany wood for heels, satin, sheepskin leather, corduroy with block and screen prints for uppers. The designer’s collection can be purchased from www.fabulloso.com
A shift is a dress that can be worn easily by sliding in over the head by a woman and hang loose from the body. Designing under the label name ‘Shift’, the name hints at the easy wearability of his garments. Nimish Shah elevates the status of every day wear by using quality fabrics, neat tailoring and warm seasonal colours. ‘Shift’ though a new name, has consciously made an effort to use GOTS certified organic cotton, khadi and specially created textiles from expert weavers. They have come together to make the collection memorable and made it sustainable fashion.
TERESA AND ROGER
Designer duo Teresa and Roger hail from Canada and previously have shown their collection at the Mumbai Lakme Fashion Week. Their collection made the audience sit up and take note because of the varied influences not just the entire collection, but each garment seemed to have. Fabrics like Ghanaian batik, Native American fabrics, South Indian cotton with Tencel and Lyocell. Fabrics, prints, textures all played their way into simple dresses for women. Minis with brown suede fringes, wrap blouses, double length Ghanaian print stove pipe pants, dhoti style knee length silk shorts, the candy-coloured batik relaxed fit jeans were some other pieces, from the same runway collection.
Urmi designs under her label titled ‘UG-Urmi’. Her inspirations are focused and personalised. The previous collection she showcased at Lakme Fashion Week, Mumbai was titled “Maar and Moumoune” inspired by the love story of Pablo Picasso and his beloved Dora Maar. Embroidery of cats, boots, tight ropewalkers, birds, cages motifs were depicted on the garments.